Saturday, September 7, 2013

Surf and Turf

Surf and turf is a meal concept I remember from my childhood--back when the earth was still cooling. It was considered the height of elegance in the striving-class restaurants my family occasionally went to. It was always the most expensive item on the menu and it was always filet mignon and a lobster tail. Punkt. No variation, no experimentation.

But why can't we toy with the staid? Here's another take on the classic: clams and sausage on the grill with corn and a rocket salad.



The prep work for this meal is very simple: set up your grill for indirect heat, put the corn in its husks in water to soak--you can do this in a sink or in a soup pot. 

Once the fire is ready put the corn in its husks directly over the heat. Turn every few minutes for about fifteen minutes then move the corn to the cooler part of the grill. If the husks char, it's no big deal. Keep turning every few minutes to let it cook evenly.

Once the corn is off the hot section, put the sausage on. You can use whatever kind of sausage you like of course. I got some chicken sausage with roasted red pepper and spices from a butcher in our old neighborhood. There was something in it that gave it a little kick that worked well. But it's best to avoid anything too, too spicy, so I think a nice Italian sausage would work with this, too. Turn the sausages every few minutes. At about the ten minute mark, take them off the center and put to the side. About five minutes before you're ready to serve, slice the sausages in half lengthwise and set them back on the grill skin side up. You're letting the edges and interior char a bit for added flavor. 

I do clams on the grill in a cast iron skillet. The complete recipe is here, but the basics are: Put some fresh herbs (we used thyme and oregano from the herb garden), some minced garlic, salt and pepper in the skillet, add a glass (or two) of white wine (we used a Muscadet) and the clams. Set it on the fire about 15 minutes before you're planning to eat. The clams will open as the wine boils, their juice will mix with the wine, garlic, herbs and spices to make a terrific broth. Add a quarter stick of butter and stir when it's melted. Serve from the skillet--remember, please, the skillet is very hot. 



We made a nice salad from rocket with pistachios and Parmesan tossed in a simple vinaigrette. I also grilled some sourdough. Brush a little olive oil on the bread and set it on the grill. Let it brown, serve it with the clams. 

This meal offers a great mix of textures and flavors: sweet corn, spicy sausage, tender clams, crunchy pistachios, tart vinaigrette, crusty bread. 

We served this with the same Muscadet we cooked with, but any crisp white or even a dry rose would work. It would also go well with an IPA.